Envinate 25 Apr 2019 4:04 AM (6 years ago)

I simply have to open the blog again with this post….it’s rare that I encounter a wine with such an emotional impact.

For a long time I’ve wanted to taste the wines from Envinate. No – let me rephrase. For a long time I’ve wanted to learn more about Spanish wine.

I am a novice when it comes to Spanish wines. Sure I’ve have tasted Vega Sicilia, Pingus etc. – but most of my encounters with Spain makes me feel somewhat embarrassed. They were based on high Parker scores. I explored nothing – I obtained zero information – I simply chased the point. I guess I have to archive it under trial and error and start over again.

For a long time Envitate has popped up on my Instagram feed. Having read about the philosophies of the 4 friends behind the Envinate winery (Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez) I imagined a possible match. The quartet sources indigenous grape varietiesfrom Ribeira Sacra in Galicia, Extremadura and the Canary Islands. Pure and authentic seems to be their aim with only picking by hand - feet in - no chemicals and only using wild yeast. Furthermore only used old barrels and small doze of sulphur at bottling.

3 weeks ago – the Danish importer presented a range of Envinate wines and I think I tasted around 7 or 8 different wines. Many were super interesting– but if to pick one – it was definitely the 2017 “Parcela Margalagua”.

Parcela Margalagua” comes from the northern part of Tenerife. A single organic farmed vineyard with over 100 years old ungrafted vines (the Canary Islalands were never infected by phylloxera) – roughly 200 meters above sea level, planted with a wide mix of local grapes; Listan Negro, Listan Prieto, Baboso, Negramoll, Malvasia Negra and many many more.

So last week I tasted it at home on a crisp spring day – judgement day; glass was Zalto Bordeaux.

Bright transparent red – already a good indication on the colour, if you like me prefer a light and fragrant wine. The nose is to die for and where do I start – and how do I explain how phenomenal this wine is. It welcomes you with open arms, free as a bird - bright red fruit; raspberries, cherries with underneath brushings of forest soil - candy like liquorice, currant and verbena. But the best thing is the volcanic baseline, which brings so much life, mineral tallness with notes of iron and iodine. The taste is stunning; silky, energetic, vibrant and utterly pure juice. On the last meters you have that inner soul of volcanic warmth. Imagine a Chambolle-Musigny had a twin brother called Brunello - they had a cousin called Pfifferling and the lived on Etna…what I am saying…???...I am basically running out of words – MAGIC WINE…WOW!!!

Long time no see - action is now on Instagram 18 Dec 2018 11:22 PM (6 years ago)

I am posting on Instagram now. You can follow me here.

Notes are shorter - but images are still done from scratch with my old and bulky camera without any Instagram filters.

Here are some teasers. (Click image to see full size)

(liquid Gold)

(Zalto Magnum)

("Chardonnay" by Cossard - grapes from Ganevat)

(Foradori)

(Fantastic Rosé from Marguet)

(Summer and Rosé)

(Arnot-Roberts)

(Arnot-Roberts - Trousseau in the glass)

((Arnot-Roberts - Trousseau)

(Zalto - before the guests arrive)

(Fantastic Rosso di Montalcino from Stella di Campalto)

(Fantastic white from Foradori)

(Foradori and decenting)

(Tirade Rosé from Lassaigne...and me)

(1996 Seloose Vintage)

(L'Artiste 2008)

(David Leclapart)

(The Agraparts)

(Aurelién Lurquin)

(Jérôme Prévost)

(Cédric Bouchard)

Bulles Bio 2016 – Copenhagen Edition 18 Oct 2016 12:49 AM (9 years ago)

A must for real Champagne lovers.

Date: 29th of October 2016
Time: 11:00-17:00
Location: Kunsthal Charlottenborg. Nyhavn 2, 1051 Copenhagen K
Price: DKK 250,- (approx: €34)

Tickets:

Producers:

Champagne Barbichon

Champagne Barrat-Masson
Champagne Bourgeois Diaz
Champagne Bruno Michel
Champagne Charles Dufour
Champagne David Léclapart
Champagne Durdon-Bouval
Champagne Fleury
Champagne Georges Laval
Champagne Lelarge Pugeot
Champagne Marguet
Champagne Pascal Doquet
Champagne Ruffin
Champagne Ruppert-Leroy
Champagne Thomas Perseval
Champagne Val'Frison
Champagne Vincent Couche
Champagne Vouette-et-Sorbée

See you there.

2008 Jérôme Prévost “Les Béguines” 15 Oct 2016 6:07 AM (9 years ago)

How do we inspire each other when it comes to wine?

There is the somewhat odd accountant exercise; we call the Tasting Note, where we put together the fragmented pieces into a final result. I hate it – yet I have done it thousand of times before and continue to do it. It’s the poor mans version of an individual emotional experience, which somehow only tells the story of what we can measure and weigh.

So I end up in the same blind alley as everyone else. Yet sometimes – like yesterday - I can’t hold back the experience I had. I want to share. I want to inspire. Don’t we all? I think most of us know that fragmenting wine is ridiculous. The real mojo of wine lies in the things we can’t explain.

Before I take you into my Champagne experience, I should write a small disclaimer.

For some Champagne growers and I am no way neutral, when I share my opinion. Why should I? I am not your consumer guide, but merely a kind of diary storyteller on wine. I like to think of true wine lovers as constant subjective individuals, emotional effected by all the impressions they have obtained. When it comes wine, we should throw away reason and embrace chaos.

A glass of Champagne from Jérôme Prévost is not just a bubbly neutral thing, which I can compare neutrally with wine A to Z. It’s the work of a dear friend. Jérôme have showed my so much kindness and made me understand how he thinks.

There is laugh, joy and inspiration stored in my memories and I constantly wish I could visit him more often. I want you all to know how gifted Jérôme are and how he like no other can tame the Pinot Meunier grape.

Just one thing more. I have often said, that I really don’t pay much attention to vintages. It’s not that I think it’s both important and educational to know as much as possible about each vintage. Vintages are fascinating in terms of how unforeseeable nature is and how dramatic each growing season can be. I am just saying, that sometimes we, as consumers, miss out on the smaller vintages because we are constantly trying to cherry pick. Small vintages are not to be missed, as they often just add to the diverse understanding of wine.

But here it’s the other way round. The glorified 2008 vintage in Champagne. So can it (and Jérôme) live up to the expectations or was it just another overhyping coincidence?

Recently I have become somewhat allergic to Champagne with some age. Allergic is a strong word. I know. But the more Champagne I drink, the more I see myself drawn to the youthful side of Champagne. I will hopefully come back to this in other thread, where I will illustrate my thoughts on; “Young”, “Mature” and “Old-Champagne”.

2008 Jérôme Prévost, La Closerie “Les Béguines”

Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier

Terroir: Sand & Calcareous elements

Vinification: Oak 450- to 600-liter barrels

Age of vines: 45 years old

Location: Village of Gueux – located west of Reims.

Dosage: 1-2 g/l.

Glass: Zalto “White Wine”

When I opened the 2008 "Les Béguines" I immediately detected some classic notes of mature Champagne. Some autolysis notes came forward, presenting themselves rather conservative with its notes of dark bread, touch of mild caramel and hazelnuts. The more Champagne I drink – the more tiresome I find these secondary notes, as they are rather monotone and overpowering both terroir, freshness and singularity.

But it took about 30 seconds before all of my reservations were proved wrong. Like the sun burned away the morning mist, the last drops of funky aromas were cleared. Underneath a landscape of beauty unfolded. Never ever have I smelled such sophistication from Pinot Meunier. We are again at a level, where it makes no sense to fragment the Champagne and list each note. Once again I am even sure I can get them right and I paid only attention to the superb balance of this Champagne. You had all imaginable things in play here. A super rich Champagne, filled to the brim with the most healthy fruit zest you can image. You feel these fruit driven notes all the way from nose – to the tip of the tongue - to the finish line, were it delivers so much sizzling energy, clarity and acidity kick.

They are all kinds of herbs and spices flying around and lots of them have Asian roots. The oak is present – but just filling in superb roundness and highlighting how complex it is. You sense it has some evolvement present, but just with small pockets of oxidation. No way near a nutty nightmare, but it felt more like the aromas from when you toss in freshly churned butter in a bowl of pasta.

But here comes the interesting part. I rested (or should I say, hid1/3 of the Champagne from my wife) and returned 2 hours later. The Champagne has completely contracted. Where it before felt like a Champagne just entering a perfect maturity window, it now felt like a one year old Champagne. The deeper and rounder notes, where replaced by freshly squeezed green apple juice. The clarity was even higher, still so complex and constantly fired up with a frightfully high acidity.

Completely insane Champagne and by far the finest "Les Béguines" I have ever tasted.

2010 Cédric Bouchard “Le Creux d’Enfer” 2 Oct 2016 6:23 AM (9 years ago)

This Friday I hosted a Champagne tasting for my old wine club.

It’s always an extra treat to taste wine with these guys. Though we have our individual preferences we seemed to have joined forces in the appreciation of elegant and lighter wines. We all love to share our designated preferences, but none of us claim to know the true meaning of wine. I regard these rare tasting occasions as the perfect window to share -inspire and be inspired.

Fridays theme was Champagne + a few extras

2012 Benoît Déhu “La Rue des Noyers”

2010 Cédric Bouchard “La Bolorée”

2013 Vouette & Sorbeé “Textures”

2010 Cédric Bouchard “Le Creux d’Enfer”

2010 Jacques Lassaigne “Tirade Rosé”

2008 Agrapart “Venus”

2008 Georges Laval “Les Chênes”

2008 Cédric Bouchard “La Haute-Lemblé”

2011 Benoît Lahaye “Le Jardin de la grosse Pierre”

2010 Jacques Lassaigne “”Autour de Minuit”

1999 Jacques Selosse “Vintage”

Bonus

2001 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino “Case Basse”

2001 Poggio di Sotto “Il Decnnale

I want to focus on one Champagne in particular, which took us all into wonderland.

2010 Cédric Bouchard “Le Creux d’Enfer”

Blend: 100% Pinot Noir

Terroir: Argilo-Calcaire

Vineyard: 0,032ha - Lieu-dit west-facing parcel planted in 1994.

Style: Crushed by foot – maceration “Saignée method”

Viciculture: Organic

Dosage: Zero

Production: approx. 550 bottles

Disgorgement: April-2014

Glass: Zalto White Wine

The Champagnes from Cédric Bouchard have never been about a check-box exercise, were you end up with a long list of aromatic notes. Fragmenting is in general irrelevant in my opinion and with Cédric’s Champagnes it’s completely pointless. They always play on a feeling were you focus much more of the overall personality of the Champagne. “Le Creux d’Enfer” is no exception. Sure you have notes of verbena, mild liquorice, roses and some boysenberry. However I am not really sure I got those notes right and it doesn’t really matter. Because the Champagne is the most fragile, complex and delicate Rosé I have ever tasted. “Le Creux d’Enfer” have that sublime perfumes of “red” and a touch of saltiness, which makes it so appealing. Despite its insane seductive appeal it makes it’s impression with no noise at all. Its understated character signals so much class and fuels it’s graceful profile.

The balance….talk about balance. Never ever have I tasted a rosé with such harmony. The low pressure of Cédric Champages naturally suppresses the bubbles and it’s feeding an almost silky and luxurious mouth feel.

Probably the best rosé Champagne I have ever tasted.

"Textures" 23 Aug 2016 1:00 AM (9 years ago)

Few would argue, that Vouette & Sorbée have always been one of the most significant Producers in the Côte des Bars. In short Vouette & Sorbée are Bertrand Gautherot. I have met him a few times before – but I can’t say that I know him that well. I sensed, from my fist meeting in 2009, that he was a man with deep influence in heart and mind by the rhythm of nature. He is also an earlier mover towards biodynamic winegrowing. Nor is he afraid of speaking his mind and highlighting some of the obvious contrasts in Champagne.

In terms of the Champagnes from Vouette & Sorbée - their strength have always been a striking intensity. Vouette & Sorbée are right in your face Champagne. V&S are one of the only producers I buy nowadays with a clear intend of actually cellaring. Cellaring brings out so many nuances in these Champagnes and tames the oak.

This especially goes for "Blanc d’Argile" (100% Chardonnay). A super intense Kimmeridgian soil Champagne, which I bought already from 2004 vintage. Back then the cellaring didn’t improve the wine, as the oak overpowered the fruit with age. Now (from 2006) it’s the other way round.

The 100% Pinot Noir Carbonic maceration Rosé “Saignée de Sorbée” has always been a beast. A super structured Champagne, with notes iron and Campari. Born for food pairing and it needs at least 4-5 years in the cellar for my palate.

The entry-level Champagne; “Fidele" (100% Pinot Noir) might be more forward, but recent vintages have showed a more reserved wine when young.

So when you thought you had everything covered and has laid out the perfect profile on Vouette & Sorbée, Bertrand turns everything upside-down with “Textures”

2013 Vouette & Sorbée ”Textures”

Blend: 100% Pinot Blanc

Soil: I am guessing Portlandian and Kimmeridgian

Vineyard: Pinot Blanc planted in 2000

Viciculture: Bio (Demeter since 1998)

Vinification: 3months in Tonneaux and 6months in Georgian amphora

Dosage: Zero

Disgorged: 28^th of October 2015

Glass: Zalto White Wine

I first tasted "Textures" at Bulles Bio in Reims and was blown away. In July, I shared it with friends in the South of France under very relaxed conditions. The third time was about 3 weeks ago. Once again I was in the magic zone.

To me this is greatest Champagne Bertrand have ever produced. Somehow it makes perfect sense that Bertrand should make this cuvée. Not because amphora is en vouge, nor because Pinot Blanc is exotic.

No! – Textures simply takes you directly into the Vouette & Sorbée engine room. It’s the purest juice I have ever encountered from Bertrand . It’s feels like drinking directly from the press and it’s as fresh as a Vin Clair. The amphora acts not only as a clarity guarantee, but also as an enhancer membrane, which spins the utterly pure juice into a sophisticated texture. The name is actually spot on. The aromatic notes goes into the direction of dried banana, candied citrus fruits, pear zest and lime. The taste is utterly divine, super precise and elegant. WOW!.

I have no idea how long it can cellar – but who can resist it now?

Benoît Déhu 25 Jul 2016 10:34 AM (9 years ago)

I first discovered Benoît Déhu back in 2014. Déhu was (and still is) part of the “Origines” group, which are among many of the tastings you can visit, in what we now know as the Champagne week in April.

Origines are a group very friendly people, good intend, curiousness and the willingness to be inspired. However, back in 2014 I witness way too much Chaptalization. Of course I am rudely generalizing (forgive me), but on that day, the bone dry 2011 (1g/l dosage)“La Rue des Noyers” was easy to fall in love with.

Dehu also served some still wines at Origines. They were pretty bold in character and might have had a bit too much wood infusion – yet quit intense for Coteaux Champenois. I will have to re-taste these wines someday.

Since then – I have tasted the 2011 “La Rue des Noyers” on several occasions and have always appreciated it. It’s a Champagne, which combines the sophisticated side of Pinot Meunier, which has its roots in high pitched energy and spices. It’s far from the heavy and baroque style of Meunier, which is really not my thing.

“La Rue des Noyers” has a phenomenal linear energy, which is intensified by a singing clarity. In 2011 the Champagne is obviously greener and herbal – which is typical for the vintage. However somehow it works here, though I believe that the 2011 should be drunk young.

Almost since I first tasted the 2011 - I have been eager for the 2012 to be released. It happened earlier this year and a few days ago I tasted it.

2012 Benoît Déhu “La Rue des Noyers”

Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier

Soil: Black limestone

Vineyard: 1,7ha in Fossoy (roughly 57 km west of Reims)

Vines: 40-45 years old

Viticulture: Bio

Vinification: Oak 228L (comes from local forrest in Fossoy). No Malo

Dosage: Zero

Production: 2.000 bottles

Disgorgement: 14 October 2015

Glass: Zalto White Wine.

The nose is really tense and packed with dynamite young juice. The 2012 are a sizzling fruit sensation, which feels like small frozen crystallized particles waiting to defrost and explode. Normally you would rarely hear me say, that a Champagne is too young. There is always something to learn and explore from a youthful Champagne and in fact - 9 out of 10 times I prefer a young Champagne.

But this is really youthful. But goddamn I would still recommend you take a dive here as it’s, filled with lime zest, flowers, apples and mint. In the background you have a slight smokey touch from the oak, which is in perfect harmony, as the fruit overload is so massive. The taste is awesome, both in terms of purity, energy and a nerve-wrecking acidity.

Hunt it, if you can find it.

P.s. Dehu Also makes a cuvée called “Le Pythie”, which I have yet to taste.

Images from 2016 Terres et vins de Champagne 5 May 2016 11:39 AM (9 years ago)

(Bottles from reception)

(Lahaye red)

(4 X Champagne)

(1975 Suenen)

(3 happy ladies)

(Pascal Agrapart)

(Olivier Paulet)

(Sebastien Crozatier)

(Benoît Tarlant)

(Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy)

(Restaurant Lallement)

(Zalto Champagne)

(Cristine)

(Mélanie Tarlant)

(Olivier Paulet)

(Emmanuel Brochet)

(Françoise Bedel)

(Aurélien Suenen)

(Raphaël Bérèche)

(Tasters)

(Vincent Laval)

(Pascal Agrapart)

(Fabrice Pouillon)

(Alexandre Chartogne)

(Vincent Bedel)

(Notes)

(Zalto and lady)

(David Léclapart)

(Dominique Moreau)

(Franck Pascal)

(Françoise Bedel)

(Bottles)

(Barrel)

(Vincent Bérèche)

(Palais du Tau à Reims)

(Olivier Horiot - check out that T-shirt)

(Aurélien Laherte - "The Gladiator")

(Zalto "White Wine" glasses)

(Palais du Tau à Reims)

(Vincent Laval)

(Emmanuel Brochet)

(Alexandre Chartogne)

(Palais du Tau à Reims)

(Françoise Bedel)

(Aurélien Suenen)

(Vincent Laval)

(David Léclapart)

(Mélanie Tarlant)

(Pascal Agrapart)

((Pascal Agrapart))

(Vincent Laval)

(Alexandre Chartogne)

(Evelina)

(Raphaël Bérèche)

(Taster)

(Tasting room)

(Benoît Tarlant)

(Dominique Moreau)

(Etienne Goutorbe)

(Vincent Couche)

(Benoìt Lahaye)

(Marie-Noëlle Ledru)

(Tasting room)

(Zalto)

(Pascal Doquet)

(Emmanuel Brochet)

(Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy with daughter)

(Delphine Boulard)

(David Léclapart)

(Benoìt Lahaye)

(Christine)

(Benoìt Lahaye)

(Cyril Jeaunaux)

(Chartogne bottles)

(Benoît Tarlant)

(Olivier Horiot)

They can also be found here: http://thomasiversenphotography.com

THANK YOU!!! to Terres et vins de Champagne for giving me the honor to be the official photographer.

Secondly for the “Terres et vins special prize”. I still can’t believe I won it. I am humble and honored. Big hug from me to all of you.

Below are some technical comments on how the images came to life.

About the images.

Although there are a few pics from the pre-reception at L'Assiette Champenoise it’s more some detailed comments on the actual tasting on Monday the 18^th of April I want to focus on.

Shooting the images for the 2016 Terres et vins de Champagne, was from technical point of view, my worst nightmare – and yet – also the most fascinating photography task, I have ever carried out.

I already knew from last year, where I also shot a few images, that the beautiful room at Palais de Tau á Reims was a challenge. It’s a big room with huge windows, but only at one side of the room. There is only ambient light, which I in general appreciate – but there is not enough of it. Had I done my research right, I could have had a few good hints. You see, the influence of the sun gets stronger and stronger as the day passes. At the end of the tasting you have the best light, as the sun is at a low positing and directly facing the building. However you can manage to shoot 450 images with 30minutes to go.

The biggest problem is the huge exposure to backlight, as almost half of the producers where facing their back to the windows. Backlit images with silhouettes can be really beautiful – especially if you can tell the shape of the person and in this case - knows the shape on the producer in the frame. But it requires that there is only one person in the frame. Last year this was much easier, as the producers where standing close to the windows without any people behind them. However this year, the setting of the tasting tables was different, so the produces facing their backs to windows had their backs to those producers facing their faces to the windows. With all the people present it I found it impossible to get an interesting silhouette shot. What to do? You use a flash. But I hate flash images and I am not good with it - plus it makes my camera even bulkier to carry around. You can also overexpose (which I have done on the image of Franck Pascal), but you invite a lot of ISO noise, which I don’t like. The other half of the producers was facing the windows, but there was another problem as they were surrounded by a lot of enthusiastic wine people, who sort of stole some of the light. What was sort of left to work with was a clear light shining on the producer’s faces, but fairly quickly faded behind and underneath them. This created a fantastic opportunity. You see if you just shot the images with a normal exposure you would burn out the highlights in their faces – so they ended up looking likes white ghosts. In theory you need to change the way the camera judges the light – from “evaluating” to “spot” or “partial”. But I am not so comfortable with these setting, so I chose another direction. Instead I had to underexpose and really use the maximum capacity of my lens. By doing this – their faces were balanced. Lowering the aperture has the advantage to set dynamic focus on the object (mainly the producers) and away from the crowd. The low aperture: f/1,6 <> f/1,2 plus underexposing by 2/3 <> 1 stop lowered the shutter speed and ISO noise. The result was a completely blurred dark background with an incredible soft light. Of course shooting at so low aperture will cost you a lot of images, which is not sharp. You will have to settle with 1 out of 5 will be fairly sharp. By having so much dark dynamic raw material to work with – especially in portraits you will have to do very little postproduction. Converting most of them to black & white created even more graphic and contrast.

I also took the opportunity to shoot some of the producers outside, where there was a clear bright spring light. I used a small balcony, just outside the tasting room, which provides great shadow and contrast to work with. I tried not to disturb the producers needed break or lunch. But I reckon that at times I was like the annoying paparazzi. Forgive me.

/Thomas

The Ostertag resurrection 6 Dec 2015 11:17 AM (9 years ago)

You know what you like about wine – don’t you? Or have ever been in doubt? I can occasionally find myself in situations, where I feel my entire fence of wine self-confidence collapsing.

In situations like this - it almost feel like a bad conscience. How did I come to the point, where I neglected wine? Why wasn’t I thorough enough?

I had a wine yesterday. A Riesling from Alsace, -which put me in the corner. Here I was, thinking about how I have completely abandoned Riesling and especially Alsace.

Riesling did it for me when I fell in love with wine. It was never Chardonnay. It was never Burgundy. Riesling had more personality, clarity, edge and acidity for my preferences.

But Alsace lost its sex appeal the day I discovered German Riesling. German Riesling however killed itself the more I got exposed to low sulphur wines. I sometimes hate myself for doing such simple conclusion. They are naive, arrogant and horrible narrow minded. Every detailed wine lover should always examine the exceptions before making such huge categorizations.

It’s not me at all. I am proud of being constant curious. I even know that I often go back to my old neighbourhood and check what I drank 10-15 years ago. But you see, often the result is disappointing and only confirming that the path I am on is the right one for me. So I get tired of having wasted my time. Why not use dedication to really get detailed about the types of wine, which are currently close to my heart?

That said – I went back to a producer, which I haven’t tasted for about 15 years. Domaine Ostertag in Alsace.

Why you may ask - and why Ostertag??

Well - I was in Champagne about 14 days ago, where I visited two good friends; David Léclapart and Jérôme Prévost. David always speaks highly about Ostertag and Jérôme said about the wine I am about to introduce “The best wine I have tasted for ages and it simply makes you feel better ”.

So let me introduce:

2013 Domaine Ostertag “Riesling Muenchberg”

Terroir: Red sandstone and volcanic sediments.

Vineyard: 17ha (Ostertag has 2,05ha) South-facing Grand Cru in the village of “Nothalten”

Viniculture: Biodynamic – certified by Demeter

Harvest: Picked 18 and 19^th of October

Alc: 13%

Residual Sugar: 3g/l

Label: Symbolizes the fire from the volcanic soil and the silky sandstone

Glass: Zalto Universal

It’s rare that I would describe the label on a wine – and the meaning, as I have just done above. But here it makes perfect sense. The wine is a study of sand and volcanic soil embracing each other. You will see why.

When I opened the wine I wasn’t that impressed. It wasn’t bad, but it kind of remembered why I split up with an “old ex girlfriend”. Remembering all the things, which didn’t work out. But the bad memories stopped here. It took about 20 minutes before the wine turned and it never looked back.

Normally in tasting note, you start describing the aromatic notes from the nose – then the taste and then you sort of wrap it up. But here the order doesn’t really matter – because it’s not interesting.

I would rather try to describe a wine, which has an enormous impact on your body. The first thing, which makes me smile, is a totally free frame. The wine welcomes you with open arms and looks both to the sky and the earth. The feel of the wine is simply phenomenal. It feels ballerina light, but its main attraction is the elastic frame. Tasting it confirms it, where the silky and elastic structure creates a luxuries mouth feel, which warms up your entire body. Normally I tend to favour wine and especially Rieslings, which provide a high acidity. But here it’s different. The acidity is present for sure, but somehow wrapped in this soft structure. But it doesn’t really matter, because the taste is about something completely else. I have already describes this mouth coating appeal, but on the finish it warm both palate and body up with this red volcanic soil. So imagine dear readers, you actually have a wine, where you by heart know all the components – as they are strong singular elements. When you combine them - you somehow know why they work so strongly together. They simply curl around each other’s personalities in circular movements (just like the label) and it’s simply unbelievable beautiful. By far the best Riesling I have tasted in years.

Humble and clueless 22 Mar 2015 11:54 AM (10 years ago)

I don’t know what to write about? I have tasted a Champagne, which I want share with you all, but I can find a subject.

But what’s the problem? I don’t want the tasting note to matter so much - because it doesn’t really interest me to write them anymore, if they are not part of a reflection. This is what I do – this is what this blog is about. Why should I compete with what’s already out there in the tasting note category?

But there is also another reason. I feel deeply humble when putting a judgment on wine. Paradoxically – the more wines I taste – the less I feel about expressing my judgment. I have seen how emotional I am around wine and how variables can change the outcome. I wrote about it here. I have even seen how wine can outsmart the most skilled tasters and I have too much respect for the wine craftsmanship and for the producers I have met. But for sure – I am the paying costumer; I even have lots of experience, so why not express my opinion? Sometimes I want to – sometimes I don’t.

But I am probably deviating for the trend, which is moving in the opposite direction. We have endless opinion formers on wine these days. Sometimes I am astounded how quickly some people form their judgment and conclusion thirsty they are.

There is a Danish poet, author and filmmaker called Jørgen Leth, which I deeply admire. Together with two musicians; Michael Simpson and Frithjof Toksvig they formed a trio called; “Vi sidder bare her (We are just sitting here)”. So far they have released 3 CD’s. The genre is Spoken Word (in Danish). Jørgen Leth has an almost hypnotic nasal voice, which are well known here in Denmark. Jørgens voice is accompanied by an almost dreamy cinematic soundtrack of subtle floating sounds. On the first CD there is a track called (translated) “Not a damn thing wiser”. Here is a part of the lyric, which I particular like:

“I like to be perceived as slightly stupid - I would rather express a stupid consciousness - a kind of non-intellect consciousness. So it’s the completely opposite from most people, who basically are clever and looking to announce their wisdom. This in an attitude I don’t have at all - not at all”.

On many occasions I feel like Jørgen Leth - especially when it comes to praise wisdom and judgement on wine.

So what now? What should I write about? Should we just get on with the tasting note – something everyone understands and not all of this Mumbo Jumbo?

Let’s get acquainted with a new Champagne from Cédric Bouchard, which I have bought a while ago, but not before now I got the chance to taste it. I tasted it with my friend Claus and we were both intrigued and fascinating from the first glass, but also agreed that the last glass was by far the best.

2010 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard “Presle”

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir (10 different clones)

Terroir: Hard clay soil

Vineyard: 0,2548ha – West exposure

Location: Celles-sur-Ource

Age of Vines: Planted in 2007

Aging: Steel

Dosage: Zero – always the case with Cédric Bouchard

Disgorgement: April 2014

Glass: Zalto White Wine

About a month ago there was an article on Cédric Bouchard in the Danish food & wine magazine: “Gastro”. The article highlighted the fact that Cédric is not a fan on oak and the autolysis character of classic aged Champagne, as both take focus from purity and the terroir character of the wine. Then the journalist reported some tasting notes, found them very interesting, but ended up concluding that he especially missed the autolysis notes.

I feel the complete opposite. I never miss anything, when I tasted Cédric Bouchard. I don’t mind oak – I can even appreciate the autolysis character, but unlike the journalist from Gastro I praise the diversity of Champagne and the fact that Cédric makes wines his way and no other way.

I get and praise the idea of comfort zones in wine (as you saw with “Daily drinkers”), as they are something, which takes a lot of time to reach, and we can find enormous rest within. However when reaching out to a producer like Cédric Bouchard we have to cross our anxiety zone. There is no alternative. This is a producer, which doesn’t make any compromises. Like or not. The first Champagne I tasted from Cédric Bouchard was in 2007. It was the 2005 “Les Ursules”. I was on one hand fascinated – but also confused and I was definitely outside my comfort zone and close to my anxiety zone. Today that anxiety has turned into a warm comfort zone and if I should tell others about my love for WINE in Champagne, he would be one of the first I would serve them.

So – If I understand this correctly, the Presle vineyard was supposedly meant to be the base of Cédric Bouchard Coteaux Champenois project. When I visited Cédric in 2011 I noticed some oak barrels there, which he told us was an experiment for his still wines. Initially the still wine(s) were to be sold in very limited numbers of magnums. But for now – the first vintage have gone bubbly – let’s see what happens in near future.

I tell you it’s an intense Champagne this one. Like with Haute-Lamblé, I have to say that I am amazed that Cédric manages to make this kind of quality with vines of such young age. It even seems to have a solid soil footprint with enormous bite and intensity. Like all other Cédric Bouchard Champagnes you don’t just sit and pick a fruit note here and there and outline a normal tasting notes. Because rarely you don’t find these common notes as lemon, pear and apple for instance. What you find is a wine composed of all kinds of racy edges – like here with Presle, which both plays with exotic fruit notes, gamey flavours, black currant and an enormous savoury spectrum. We had it both with and without food and it plays better with food as it has a very vibrant acidity and it’s one of the most structured Champagnes I have tasted from Cédric Bouchard.

I was just about to compare Presle with the other Champagnes of Cédric Bouchard. But does it really matter? Presle stands for something singular and unique - like the rest of Cédric's wines. BRAVO!!!.

Daily drinkers 16 Feb 2015 5:52 AM (10 years ago)

“Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans”

(John Lennon)

Wine has always been a victim of proportions. Most of my wine loving friends (including yours truly) have always measured the experience of drinking wine. It’s the simple result of telling a story and emphasising the enthusiasm or disappointment.

Telling a story about wine is not easy, which of course is a good thing, as we interpret so individually. Yet we often categorize. Cut to the chase. What wine are we dealing with? What level are we at? Legendary, Great, dull or bad wine. Maybe just daily drinkers

So what are daily drinkers?

First of all it’s a wine with a good” quality to price ratio” (QPR). It’s something we buy in cases and drink it big gulps. The no brainer wine - the wine we always reach out for, when we have no idea what else to drink. The wine, which is never seasonal, but works all year round. It’s also something, which define us. Italian wine aficionado maybe; a Chianti, Rosso di Montalcino, Dolcetto or a Barbera. These wines not only provide our everyday needs – they also keep us in our comfort zone. We have bought these wines, because we know beforehand that we will connect with them.

But when it comes to tastings or special occasions we tend to dress up and explore wines with a higher price tag and presumably also a higher quality and complexity. Rosso di Monalcino becomes a Brunello - Dolcetto or Barbera becomes Barolo. These special events tend to be the bridge to some of our most memorable wine experience. Or are they really? Did John Lennon have a point, when it comes to wine? I think so.

For sure wine obtains an extra dimension, when it breaks the barriers and light up our emotional barometer. But somehow I think daily drinkers deserve the same respect. They are the backbone of our passion. I also like the humbleness, which are essential for these wines. There is something aesthetical about the simplicity they posses and despite the might lack in complexity they can in some cases have a higher degree of presence as you immediately connect with them. And last – but not least, to earn and fit this category they always have the highest degree of drinking pleasure.

Here are some of my favourite daily drinkers – some I drink now – some I have run out of –some are on the radar, some I wonder why I forgot or never bought more of. Price wise less than €20 are ideal, but it could go all the way up to €30 in some cases.

Champagne:

Laherte “Brut Nature”

Tarlant “Brut Zero”

Marie-Courtin “Efflorescence”

Whites:

Nicolas Carmarans “Selves”

Cyril Fhal “Clos du Rouge Gorge (Blanc)”

Sarnin-Berrux “Bourgogne Aligote”

Yann Durieux “Love and Pif”

Frederic Cossard “Bigotes”

Noella Morantin “Chez Charles”

Reds:

Arianna Occhipinti “Il Frappato”

Arianna Occhipinti “SP68”

Lamoresca “Nerocapitano”

Vino di Anna “Palmento”

Yvon Mètras “Fleurie Printemps”

François Saint-Lô “On l’aime nature”

Domaine de la Tournelle “Uva Arbosiana”

Maxime Magnon "Rozeta"

….Etc….and I am sure there a lots of wines, which I have either forgot or could fit in.

Let’s end this small session with a wine, which fits this category to perfection:

2012 Hervé Villemade “La Bodice”

Blend: 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Chardonnay

Location: AOC Cheverny (Loire Valley) town is called Cellettes

Terroir: Sands with flint and flint clays

Age of vines: 33years old

Vinification: Oak and steel

Glass: Zalto Universal

I love this wine – simple as that. It’s trademark and the fist impression is divine zippy freshness, which burst out of the glass with candied citrus and lime zest. But there is also a remarkable secondary understated window with remarkable ripe and lush fruit sensation – such as mango and pineapple, which could very well be driven forward by the Chardonnay grape. Underneath you have some darker baseline, soil and spice driven with fennel and liquorice as the main character (also mentioned on the Hervé Villemade homepage). This is the sort of wine you drink with our without food on any day of the year. If you choose the latter you will discover a phenomenal food-pairing breed, which I have successfully matched up with both a rich salmon dish, chicken in red curry, sushi, gazpacho and even guinea fowl. Great stuff and highly recommended.

The perfect drinking window 1 Feb 2015 10:18 AM (10 years ago)

From the very first day I got acquainted with wine, I also stock my head into a swarm of consumer guidance. At that time I needed those advises - so obviously I embraced them as the most natural thing to do.

The drinking window was one of those advises, I quickly realized was of significant importance. Back then; I was into wines with serious muscle and extract, which required time to unfold. Paying attention to the perfect window of opportunity was crucial and logical. However I also learned, that the drinking window was not a straight line, which gradually unfolded the flower. Wine were a living organism, which had it’s own dynamic cycle and you never knew what to fully expect.

The consumer guidance however evolved over the years with the birth of the Internet. Wine boards – databases and social medias, all chiming in with live data stream about a wines status. It matters in an environment of passionate, dopamine addicted and seriously impatient wine people. Being guilty as sinned here – yet somehow I have also realized flaws in the system and actually never solved the equitation of planning the perfect drinking window.

But why are we so anxious about the drinking window? Are we merely just practicing due diligence by sort of protecting our investment? Opening a wine at perfect maturity is success. Opening a too young wine or a wine over the hill is failure. The consumer guidance has taught us to pick our winners and stay away from the loser’s team.

But you know what – it’s just another flawed story from the wine scene, always posting flock mentality black and white guidance.

I think it’s fine that you, as a wine geek pay attention to every detail about a wine. If you pick up stories about a possible vintage or certain wines, which requires extraordinary patience - you will obviously somehow storage that information. But personally I discovered, that I gradually became a slave to an overload of information. It became the driving force behind every move I made. I started to form intros, story lines and endings for wines, like they were a predictable Hollywood movie.

It had to stop and it did.

If you are a romantic wine drinker (like me), it’s important that you somehow bury the theorist inside you and prepares the inner “doer” to get out on the dance floor and practice. The only way you learn about what’s the right or wrong drinking window (if at all any) is to make “mistakes”. But actually they are not mistakes. You take experience with you and if you are willing to challenge yourself you stop and reflect. In this process you will discover that wine does not have one, but almost never ending drinking windows. I would even go as far, as saying, there is no such thing as a wrong drinking window. That’s not the same as saying a wine will taste significant better/worse during it’s life span. But hey – that’s life – that’s wine – that’s the risk you have to live with. If you are looking for a 100% bulletproof plan only circulating in your comfort zone then you might consider drinking Coca-Cola or water.

So let’s turn to a Champagne, which can support my post. It comes from a wine maker, which I am very fond of. It’s the one and only Jérôme Prévost (again).

Now Jérôme have often told me, how it sometimes takes 5-6 years after bottling before he can actually recognize the wine he worked with in the cellar. His wines are known to shut down dramatically in the bottle. For this and based on several experiences, two visits (and even a small vertical tasting in nov-2012), I have build a comfort zone fence of making myself believe that “Les Béguines" and La Closerie Fac-Simile rosé” requires +4-6 years of cellaring to reach an optimal drinking window. In this process I did the exact same mistake, which I have just criticized. I forgot that Jérôme’s wines, especially “Les Béguines" presents one of the most sophisticated versions of Pinot Meunier from day one.

You love your children from birth – and they might bring even higher joy to your life as they grow older – but their character are also a reflection of their childhood. Wine is the same – small individuals, with both a backpack of personality and constant evolvement. They might be slightly flawed, unresolved, mysterious - even fascinating, yet they also provide a mind game of imagination of what they can be. Wine is sense game, a dreaming aspect and who on earth would miss out on this?

2011 Jérôme Prévost “Les Béguines “

Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier

Terroir: Sand & Calcareous elements

Age of vines: 42-47 years old

Location: Village of Gueux – located west of Reims.

Dosage: 2 g/l.

Glass: Zalto White wine and Riedel Veritas Champagne (see test result)

From the very first nosedive you are beamed into a another Pinot Meunier dimension. Nowhere in Champagne you find this sophistication. I would be reaching beyond my vocabulary, if I should try to list the “correct notes”. They seemed to be composed of black cherry stones, black olives, diamond dust (don’t ask), licorice powder, nutmeg and a mixture and unexplained spices. There is a splendid firmness and energy, bringing utterly divine tallness, which is reason enough to taste it young. On the palate it shows great definition with a solid footprint of this spice paradise mixture being gracefully released in a very convincing way. Overall – the 2011 might not have the majestic tallness like the ’08 and the ’06 devilishness – but it’s one of the most elegant and sophisticated versions I have tasted of “Les Béguines “.

Now knowing how it tasted from youth, we have been formally introduced to each other. The dream processes have begun. When will me met again – how will the next“date” turn out?

Pink Love in January 25 Jan 2015 4:07 AM (10 years ago)

I tend to forget about the rosé category in general. What about you? How often have you said to yourself (in comparison with red and white) – I need more “pink” in my cellar? It’s a shame really, because they are in some ways unique, not only by colour, but also on aromatic profiles and food matching abilities.

Maybe the category occasionally slips our minds, because it’s season based, making sense as the refreshing thirst-quenching drink on a hot summer day. But of course the wine geek knows better and the pink song has a B-side, which contains much other than Tutti Frutti bonbon beats. Often the flip side leads to Champagne, where another dilemma awaits. The simple equation of the supply and demand curve, with deadly high price tags, as the en vouge pink sparkling version often is microscopically part of a producer’s entire portfolio.

Yesterday I found myself in mood for some rosé. Or should I say – I was in the mood for some Jérôme Prévost. The weather was dead awful. Grey with a mixture of sleet and snow, so not your average sunny rosé day. But what the hell, I had prepared some pearl barley with pumpkin seeds, which I made like a risotto and served with guinea fowl. I thought a Rosé could work and it did – really well in fact. I knew the fat structure from the risotto look-alike dish could be an issue. And for sure, it was of some concern, but then again the refreshing bubbles did a good job cleansing the palate.

But let’s turn to the Champagne.

2011 Jérôme Prévost “La Closerie Fac-Simile Rosé”

100% Pinot Meunier

Dosage: 0-2 g/l

Terroir: Massive layers of calcareous sand formations and fossils with tiny crustaceans

Aging: Oak

Method: Assemblage

Production: 3.128 bottles

Glass: Zalto white wine

Some would say that Jérôme Prévost rosé version always have been in the shadow of his standard Champagne: “La Closerie”. Of course it makes sense to do the A vs B battle here, as Jérôme currently only makes two cuvèe’s. However I think it’s wrong and like to see them as two different persons, with two different personalities. I also believe that Jérôme have improved his rosé enormously since release, and it’s something you need to drink over an entire evening – both with and without food. You also need to let it breath and warm up in temperature (which I did).

Let me emphasize, what I like about a rosé (and forgive me for repeating myself). I love a when a rosé sort of “dries out”. When the primary fruit settles down and removes the worst candy like associations. With the saignée method (maceration – not the case here), time is also necessary for me, to take away both the slightly more aggressive style and in some cases lower the potential tannins. In both cases, cellaring will bring a saltier and far more interesting Champagne IMHO. But also on the aromatic barometer, there awaits beauty with patience…..now you are probably thinking….so why the hell are you telling us all this stuff, when you have just popped the cork of a relative young 2011 Champagne? Good question and I have no good answer, other than I always like to check out (if I have enough stock) a Champagne when it’s potentially too young. But here comes the good part – this rosé had already gained some of that “dried out style”, which provided some of the most fascinating aromatic notes of verbena, currant, dried thyme and other mind-blowing sophisticated spices. These notes will come fully alive half way through the bottle and when you raise the temperature to 13-15 degrees. You simply can’t let go of the glass – the nose is seriously intoxicating. The taste is not bad either – really light on its toes, very graceful, yet persisting enough with enormous bite. I think some would argue, that it has a slightly greenish style, which is also the case for the ’11 vintage in Burgundy. But I really this, because it becomes so understated by this. What rosé Champagne – WOW!!....and just to let you know – the day before I drank 2004 “Venus” from Agrapart, which was also mind-blowing good, so I came from a high calibrated level and this Rosé didn’t suffer one bit at all.

BRAVO Jérôme!!!

Vintage hysteria, high expectations and 2008 “L’Apôtre” 18 Jan 2015 6:32 AM (10 years ago)

(David Léclapart)

“Blessed is he who expects nothing, for he shall never be disappointed.”― Alexander Pope

I think we have all been there, right? Expecting too much and ending up disappointed. With a colleague, your company, your best friend, your spouse or maybe even a bottle of wine. Expectations are the result of looking ahead, thinking solution orientated and imagine (maybe even dreaming) of a happy end. When failure arrives at our doorstep, we obviously ask ourselves why? Did we overlook something? Or were unexpected variables responsible for the negative outcome and can we actually blame someone other than ourselves?

Wine is indeed exposed to high expectations and holds a complex field of variables, which sets complex scenarios.

One of the most expectation adding variables is vintage hyping. The declaring of a great vintage will obviously raise the bar and expectations.

Vintage has always been a key driver for wine lovers. If you get caught inside the wine universe, you have also learned to pay attention to details. We constantly search for wines, which can enlighten our sense hungry minds a little more than our last experience and provide us with those unforgettable moments.

So we plan well ahead to be in our comfort zone. We look for a bulletproof plan, by cherry picking the best vintages and carefully (unless your are a billionaire) plan our future wine purchases. Why shouldn’t we? Wine education tells you to be selective; otherwise your finances will run dry

Paying attention to vintage is logical – but also a blind alley and not a guarantee. Especially because wine journalists often compose the declaration of a vintage, which tends to follow a framework, which might not take into account how you drink wine. I mean, how many speak about the simple drinking pleasure and how food diverse the wine or vintage may be? I couldn’t care less about +60 second finishes and only hearing praise for vintages with the highest testosterone.

I find myself split on vintage and high expectations. It really depends, how much I pay attention to vintage. When I get my yearly allocation on producers like Ganevat, Cossard or Cédric Bouchard, I don’t really care about the vintage. I just buy them (if I can afford them), because I know they will have something to offer. And what if it’s on paper not a great vintage? Maybe it will just taste better young? Cellar the big vintage and drink the smaller vintages. Great plan as I see it. I think there is almost nothing worse than seeing tasters obviously disappointed with a wine in a “great vintage”, trying to prove for themselves that the wine was still fantastic.

So even if I find the whole vintage thing one big mass psychoses I would be lying to you if I said that vintage didn’t matter to me and I never tried to find an alibi for a wine, which didn’t live up to my expectations.

It actually happened a couple of days ago.

2008 David Léclapart “L’Apôtre”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Dosage: 0 g/l

Vines: Planted in 1946

Vineyard:0,31ha Lieu-dit “La Pierre St-Martin”

Fermentation: Oak-barrels.

Other: Biodynamic stuff

Glass: Zalto White wine

Oh yes I had high expectations. Why not? I have a thing with David and his wines and there is always something in the air, when I taste his Champagnes.

I even tasted the 2008 “in the “L’Apôtre” Vertical 1999 >>> 2009” back in Nov-2013 with David and was blown away by its intensity. It certainly lived up to the hype about the 2008 vintage in Champagne. Vertical tasting are really educational, as you can almost outline the younger wines path and imaging their potential Sure, having tasted almost all releases of L’Apôtre from youth, I knew there was a risk of it being simple too young. I even knew that L’Apôtre would be slow starter.

Day one – Friday. A leaf day btw - So not a good day to drink wine, according to the biodynamic lunar calendar. I think I have never tasted a Champagne this shy and 110% completely closed. There was simply nothing to gain from the nose other than the sense of something very clean. The taste had an insane acidity, which felt like a thousand citrus fruits being crushed on your tongue. I would be lying, if I said it was good. More a study than actually pleasure. If I had to conclude something from this day I would have no idea what to write other than I had too high expectations. Did I hype it too much or what had happened since Nov-2013. I found myself making the same excuses that I somehow find rather pathetic; when a taster just can’t get himself to say it’s not a good wine, but feverishly try to argue their way out of the problem. My wife and I drank half of the bottle and I decided to leave the other half for the next day, where I had the entire half for myself.

Day two – Saturday. A fruit day and even if I don’t have that great success with the bio-calendar, I still found myself in this search for meaning (and still hoping) over my Friday disappointment. Mama-Mia – WOW!!! I wouldn’t say that the wine was actually open now and a flowering fruit bomb. But what revealed itself was one hell of an insane electric Champagne, setting the bar for energy higher than I have ever seen before. The aromatic notes are still very primary with tons of ripe citrus tonality, soil intensity and this nerve wrecking acidity still cuts all the way through the wine. With vintages like 2002 and 2004 “L’Apôtre”, which has occasionally also shut down, especially shortly after release I would obviously recommend seriously cellaring here. However “L’Apôtre” is known to open up again before heading for a more mature window. When that is – I have no clue. But damn – what a Champagne it will be, when it unfolds.

A new Champagne glass 28 Dec 2014 7:47 AM (10 years ago)

(From left: Zalto White Wine / Riedel Veritas Champagne / Spiegelau "Adina water Goblet)

A Danish glass aficionado (thank God there are more than me) recently brought to my attention that the new Champagne glass from Riedel (the Veritas series – middle on the image) was worth checking out. It however slipped my mind, before I attended a tasting where this glass was praised once again. Hmmmmm……Okay to hell with it – let’s see what the fuss is all about.

So a week ago, when tasting Chartogne-Taillet 2002 “Fiacre” I took it for a spin vs Zalto White Wine, which I am using more and more as my reference Champagne glass.

The Riedel Veritas Champagne glass overall has a good feel about it. It’s cool, classic design and on sight seems to be a good companion if you want to bring out the vinous side of Champagne – which I do. Although it’s machine made, it’s has a fairly low weight and a really thin stem. However, when arriving from Planet Zalto, everything seems bulky and heavy in comparison. This will always be an advantage for Zalto a no other glass brand has the same magic feel about it IMHO.

Fiacre is a lovely Champagne, which always makes me in a good mood. In Riedel “Fiacre” performed classic and really good. If you knew of no other glass, this would be a great Champagne glass.

In Zalto however (left), it was another story. It’s been a while since I have conducted glass tests, but here I overwhelmed by the difference. Zalto was a millions time better. It’s simply a difference in frehness and focus, which makes all Champagnes in Zalto seems so frisky. Returning to Riedel; “Fiacre” was suddenly much heavier and sweeter and I am confident it has to do with the fact you are tasting lead (Riedel) vs lead-free (Zalto).

Another test: 28. december 2014.

2010 Doamine Belluard “Ayse Mont-Blanc Brut Zero”

(So not Champagne, but a sparkling wine from Savoie made from 100% Grignet). Seriously one of the best non-Champagnes I have ever tasted. A real bargain)

More or less the same result, though not as clear as Zalto’s first win. This time Adina was also in play. In Riedel it was more about simple fruit, which of course is okay. But the wine was lacking secondary nuances as the fruity impression was overwhelming. Yet in Adina, it has a more toned down/subtle appeal, which provided more elegance. In Zalto you had the edgy feel again, where the wine felt really naked, yet also far more mysterious and interesting with the mineral spine really kicking in. I am not sure everyone would go for the Zalto as winner here, as it shows the wine far more raw and unpolished. But I like this raw and racy expression.

Test – from 16^th of January 2015.

2008 “L’Apôtre” from David Léclapart

This time Adina vs Zalto. Hard to say, who actually won here, because we were dealing with a very shy Champagne. But the pattern was the same. In this case, the Adina glass seemed to have an advantage by opening up “L’Apôtre” a bit more. However it was just an illusion, caused by the wider opening of the glass and the feel of some fruit coming forward. The Champagne was indeed sealed like an oyster. I still favoured Zalto, despite it was a strange test really, simple because the firmness and feel of the energy in Zalto was better, which is always the case for me. On day two – I forgot about testing and just enjoyed the second half of the bottle in Zalto.

New test: 30^th of Janury 2015

2011 Jérôme Prévost “Les Béguines “

Zalto vs Riedel. It really came close this time. Riedel really captured the essence of “Les Béguines “. Refined and fresh in Riedel – no fuzz at all, just like Zalto. Where it goes wrong for Riedel, is when it warms up in temperature. First of all it accelerates faster in Riedel, whereas as Zalto keeps the wine cooler. Or it feels like that and of course Riedel in general has a wider bowl. But one difference seems once again to be the unleaded vs a lead glass. In Riedel the wine becomes clumsier when raised in temperature and the feel of lead. In Zalto there is a constant firmness and nothing is lost or sticks out, when it warms up – only a natural temperature evolvement.

I might do one of two testing’s more – but I think there a pattern is starting to form.

The death of the Tasting Note and a damn fine Champagne. 5 Oct 2014 11:21 AM (11 years ago)

The Tasting note has become an institution and the most logic form of describing a wine. In it we try to unfold the character of the wine by fragmenting it’s components. A good taster have the ability to distinctively spot the most detailed aromatic/flavour notes of the wine and some can even visualize the wine for you, by using creative metaphors. No doubt that the use of metaphors enriches the language, elevates the fun-factor and even have an inspirational appeal to a thirsty audience. But!” - they can also be highly individual, completely useless and far-fetched. After the creative phase of the tasting note, and the use of endless adjectives, the taster will try to reach a conclusion, by sort of putting the notes back into a context, measuring the wines overall balance. Some end the tasting note with a score – some don’t.

(The scoring of wine is probably a separate post worthy, but let’s leave that for a rainy day).

I have a hate/love affair with the tasting note. I think it’s a poor mans thought of trying to capture a wines soul. However I recognize that it’s at least a form trying it’s best with words to unfold a wines character.

What I don’t like about the tasting note is that it reminds me of performance tool, between a company and their employees. We look for plusses and minuses, by fragmenting and we ALWAYS end up concluding something. Yet when we have separated all the components of a wine into a SWOT matrix we don’t always, if you ask me, manage to assemble the components correctly back into place. The fragmenting becomes primary and we become too focussed on performing a task, rather than just relaxing and connecting with the wine. I think we do this, because the tasting note has become such an easy form to adapt to.

Our role models – and where we have learned the tasting note from – are wine journalist. However I think we forgot forgot, in our eager to play mini-Parker/Galloni or Jancis Robinson, that the wine journalist are at work and tasting notes are part of their paycheck. We, you and I – the consumer, are not at work. Nothing is required from us, when it comes to wine – yet we chose to use the neo cortex of our brain, which is responsible for all our rational and analytic choices. Instead, the curious reader, would obviously ask, why we don’t use our the limbic system of our brain, which holds all our feelings and emotions, when wine are in fact something that unfolds on an emotional level? But does the limbic system have an understandable language? I believe it has and I miss its presence in wine, despite I can find it elsewhere in other emotional systems like literature, art and music. The limbic language is not so easy to master as listing facts are. It will even break the norms and you might be laughed at, because it can be perceived as pure nonsense. Who wants to be a failure, when they can be a success, by just following the already secure standards of a fact-listing tasting note? The tasting note have become like an occupying norm institution. And fair enough really, because maybe we don’t need to express what the limbic system are telling us. Maybe the affect of the wine – that electric pulse inside your bloodstream was just a personal moment for you. The unexplainable was somehow your own little secret – another dimension - something to hold onto and be inspired by. Sometimes it can be disturbing to let other people into your most private thoughts – so why share it, if it holds more value by treasuring it?

There are also good things about tasting notes. I like the fact that starting up a tasting note actually forces you to listen and talk to the wine. The more this conversation unfolds– the more information you will obtain. The experience of the wine, if you do a proper job, should hold most of the details. By having written your notes down on paper, it’s very easy to come back and do some more reflections.

However at the end of the day – the formal approach of writing down has the tendency to focus on “what?” (The neo cortex) – analysis, facts, numbers - and not the “why?” (The limbic system) – emotions, feelings and reflections.

“Why” - is me – this is who I am, when I drink wine. When I work – I am “what” and I need that contrast when it comes to wine.

Let’s end it here – despite the subject holds more nuances. It’s a blog – not a novel ;-).

But before we end – as the headline promised – I’ll give you a tasting note on a spectacular Champagne.

2009 Benoît Lahaye “Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre”

Blend: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Arbanne, Petit Meslier and other unknown varieties.

Terroir: Brown Chalk

Age of wines: Some Planet in 1923 by Benoit's grandfather – yet some dead replaced again in 1952.

Vinification: 10 months in old 225l barrels.

Dosage: 0 g/l

Production: 840 bottles

Glass: Zalto White wine

I have actually tasted this Champagne once before in 2013, when I attended the pre-2013 Terres et vins de Champagne event called “"Les Vins de Champagne à travers le temps". This is however the first I take it for a spin at home. I remember it as a remarkable breed with highly sophisticated spices. I also remember that the blend was rather particular and also asking Benoît about these “other” varieties? He just smiled, so we will have to settle with that ;-).

I can’t tell you what these spices taste like – they are so unique and intense. You have to buy it “see” for yourself. It smells like raw soil, warm stones, black cherries stones/olives – but I am really guessing here, because I have never tasted anything like it before. The intensity of these spices, roots from a dark place and it seriously feel like drinking the soil. At one stage I feared that it would lose height, given the combination of these dark, mysterious spices and the slightly warm ’09 vintage. However despite the growling dark baseline it somehow also manages to stretch itself into a weightless space. Insane really – something I have never seen before and totally emotional experience for me.

When I ask myself what I love about Champagne, it always circles around the cool climate, fostering overly elegant and precise wines. However I also like the raw side of Champagne, which started to come alive, when I got introduced to growers like Benoît Lahaye here. This is raw nature-stuff Champagne, not seeking any kind of compromise. Nor is it a fruit bomb, ready to take you for Boogie Woogie on the dance floor. “Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre” is not a beginner Champagne and I would recommend you to drink it with food.

One of a kind Champagne. Try it, if you can find it.

Drinking wine alone 24 Aug 2014 10:52 AM (11 years ago)

Wine is about sharing. Sure – we all know that phrase. In wine it’s second nature to enhance the experience by sharing. Today’s psychologist and coaches speaks about how important it is that other people are witnesses to our life. We live stronger when we give something to other people and they act as a catalyst for our sensorial systems. Wine is no different. The joy of being with likewise passionate people is revitalizing. I live for this – it’s part of my wine loving DNA.

I couldn’t live without “sharing”. However the daily practicalities are of course producing some logic obstacles. We are (well I am) constantly frightful busy and always short of time. So I do actually drink a lot of wine on my own…well almost…technically its most of the times with my wife, but it’s the moments were I completely alone and decide to open a bottle a wine, I want to speak about. I also want to speak about why, especially big tasting events, is not always heaven to me.

Let’s go back to the month of May this year….

My wine mates and I (plus 3 other friends) were at one of my favourite restaurants in Copenhagen. Own wine – Chef table – Rock 'n' Roll. It couldn’t go wrong. But it did. I didn’t have a good time and not only did I have alcoholic hangovers the next day – I also felt like a melancholy zombie. When my brain started to function again, I started to put together my state of mind puzzle. Why did I feel so miserable? What went wrong?

There were three reasons.

Firstly – I often build expectations to an event like this. I am confident it releases some traces of dopamine and increases my adrenalin. That’s why you often hear the remark of people who look forward to events like this, as a child looks forward to Christmas Eve. Good or bad tasting…well often the day after feels hollow and slightly melancholic.

Secondly is a “demon” I have seen before, which relates a little to the first one. The demon is a kind of seven deadly sins – well at least three of them: Lust, Gluttony and Greed. Sadly there is a tendency, that lack of moderation can kill the intimacy for me. Erotic turns into porn. There are too many impressions to digest at a +20 bottle wine tasting with +20 courses of food and +10 people to talk to. You have to prioritize and somehow I have never succeeded to put together the perfect plan. Something has always suffered and killed the overall impression.

Third is a new “troll”. The troll is about different opinions. Despite I think you can learn a lot from tasting with other people and understanding what makes them tick, I am not always in the mood of constantly hearing their and my opinion on wine. Especially if it comes to just focussing on the most significant diversity of each other’s taste. Sure such a debate is interesting, but it requires time to obtain the important nuances. You don’t have that time at such events, where you have to focus on so many things. Sometimes I just want to “be there”. Catching up with friends, I might not have seen for a long time. The wine can even be secondary. It’s simply just about confirming your friendship. So it annoys me, when I sometimes feel in a situation, where I am forced to express my own opinion. At this above-mentioned tasting event there were such a situation. One of the attendees, whom I don’t know well, expressed his opinion about natural wine. He told me about a purchase of a mixed 12-bottle case (all natural wine), from an importer I know well. Now I don’t own or have a passion for these wines he bought, but I have tasted them before. He explained that half of them were good, 3 of them were so so and the last 3 were undrinkable. Then waited for me to say something, especially concerning the 3 undrinkable ones. It was like he had invited me to take part of a discussion, as he must have thought of me as an ambassador of both natural wine and the guy who imports them. So what do you say to that? I didn’t say anything. I didn’t care really. Leave me alone, dude.

Drinking wine alone.

I love drinking alone. It’s peaceful and aesthetic. When I am alone with wine I can crawl into my own little cave. On one hand I pay attention on all the details of the wine and the ambience around me. Paying attention makes you see nuances, which is muted if you don’t pay attention. On the other hand, I also like to be absorbed in a kind of no man’s land, where I don’t pay attention to anything. It’s important to create this bubble, which I often do by listen to music, watch a good movie or look in my many photographic books. Wine and the alcohol affect is not an escape from the challenges you have in your life. This is important to understand. Wine and alcohol is not the solution for a stressed life. I never drink wine, when I feel stressed. However I use eight hours a day crunching numbers and try to navigate and beat the financial markets. I simply get nuts, if there is not a contrast to this and have found out that wine creates a path to my other half brain and opens a window of creativity.

So what happens next - when the wine is in the glass and the ambience is set? We talk– the wine and I. Oh yes. I like to talk with the wine. Wine is like a small individual “person” and I see my role as someone trying to understand he/she/it. The only way to understand is to listen and make conversation. Such a statement sounds like mumbo jumbo – I know. Yet I would bet we each have our way of “communicating” with wine. The conversations are highly interesting. They swing from love at first sight >>> instant trouble >>> puzzled >>> intellectual >>> meaningless >>> eccentric >>> seductive >>>…….etc.

Sometimes it happens that the experience and the ambience created, takes my mind to an almost transcendental state. It’s far easier for me to let go when I am alone. Is wine a drug? I have never taken any drugs, but I imagine there are some similarities, when this transcendental mental state takes control. These moments come and go and shift in their strength, but at their peak, it’s at moments like these I feel most inspired in my life.

The silence and the intimacy are also magical. It’s again the relationship/conversation between you and the wine. Yes – there might be issues, which you don’t like about the wine, but then again you have something to “talk” about. The wine is not flawless – and so what? I am far more forgiving when I drink alone. When you taste wine with other people, I think we have a tendency to quickly conclude on aromatic profiles, use a lot time “nailing it” – praise those who “won” and quickly move on to the next wine. This is a big mistake if you ask me. The best way for me to understand a wine is after I have drunk a whole bottle of by myself.

Don’t ever give up drinking wine with friends, your loved ones and with other people – but don’t forget to drink wine alone either.

Champagne visit - 2014 19 Jul 2014 1:35 PM (11 years ago)

Stay tuned....All images are clickable and will open a larger format.

(Jérôme Prévost)

(Hotel and restaurant Les Avisés / Selosse)

(Le Chateau de Pierry / Les Origines Champagne)

(Ine Goossens & Ries van der Vlugt / Just Add Wine)

The price trap 28 Jun 2014 6:23 AM (11 years ago)

In April I visited Champagne again. I couldn’t help noticing that prices on grower Champagne are on the rise. Yet the increasing price curve on the most innovative growers in Champagne are not a singular phenomenon. Prices on quality wines are in general increasing and it rarely helps when the production is low. Just think of Burgundy, where some of the most prestigious names are separating themselves to an exclusive club of consumers.

Overall I don’t like to talk about prices on wines. “Numbers” is what I do for a living and wine has always acted as a contrast to my work life. I like to keep it that way. Money is a weird thing really – we know it matters, but to start a debate about what’s the right way to use them is more about moralizing. What people do with their own money is their choice. Wine is good example. All passionate wine lovers, knows it’s a form of madness to spend a ridiculous amount money on fermented grape juice. You might have done a great investment, but at the end of the day you are willing to “destroy” that investment by drinking it. Yet we (us wine geeks) know that there is more to it than just grape juice with alcohol.

I often see people complain about price developments on wine. I am no different and guilty as sinned. In fact it happened in Champagne. Some of my favourite producers are starting to be in a price range, where I have to think twice. If I decide to buy expensive wine I just don’t buy a six-pack without blinking. But owing just one or two bottles of a very expensive wine is actually another dilemma. You just don’t serve these wines on a Tuesday evening with a Spaghetti Bolognese. No! You save them for a special occasion. This is okay to some degree, as we have always split wines into different categories and somehow we find wines that suit that Tuesday evening. However when you put the wine on an exclusive price pedestal you build high expectations. You even make sure it’s served with the right people, as you rarely drink such expensive wines alone – or do you? I think most want to share a potential big experience with other people and this is one of the beauties with wines; friendship and the social element. Yet it’s also a bit weird, because you will probably only get one or two glasses. You even make sure the wine is matched with the right food, chose the right day - where “equivalent” wines are present. Now there is absolutely nothing wrong with looking forward to taste a special wine. Not at all – I embrace this myself. However I have never felt comfortable of tasting wines, where I somehow beforehand are almost nervous on the outcome. Tasting wines naked, being relaxed and just interact with the wine and having a good natural flow appeals far more to me.

Yet the spike in prices also have a positive flip side for me. When a wine breaches your own price limits the initial thought is: DAMN! Now I can’t buy Soldera or Jacques Selosse anymore and this is not so easy to digest. For me it helps thinking that if I die tomorrow I won’t die thirsty of either Soldera or Selosse. Yet somehow I just forget about them. They kind of slip my mind and the reason is simple. Wine-Life goes on. It’s like my consumer behaviour automatically guides me in a different direction and my curiosity likes that. It says something about how many talented winemakers there are out there and how many I haven’t even tasted yet. I live for curiosity and taking a stance on prices helps me stay alert.

You might already have guessed this introduction is leading up to a wine, where I will touch upon its price tag. This wine is the result of being curious and of course having good wine dealers, who buys the good stuff and knows your palate. The price here is low – but the quality is outrageous. I couldn’t help to speculate if this wine was served blind to me. I would have compared it with some of the best white wines I have tasted from Burgundy, which are easily +150€. But this one is roughly €23…if you can find it that is.

2012 Jean-Marie Berrux “La Petite Têtu”

Grape: 100% Chardonnay

Location: Burgundy, Corpeau, Slightly south of Puligny.

Vineyard: 1,5 ha

Vinification: Oak (20% new) + only indigenous yeats.

Viticulture: Biodynamic

Other: No sulphur during vinification – only at bottling (approx 18mg/l)

Production: 7-8.000 bottles

Glass: Tasted two times – One time from Zalto Burgundy and second time from a Spiegelau Burgundy glass in a restaurant). Zalto was miles better (no surprise) and lifted the wines freshness and minerality, whereas in Spiegelau it was a bit oilier and heavier in style.

I didn’t write any notes on it…I never do that anymore, but I remember it very well. I also remember my wife and I drank if faster than we normally do. My wife even said, that she was tired and not so much into wine this evening. She changed her mind. The wine is utterly sensual. It has a mind-blowing elastic feel as soon as you stick your nose into the glass. On one hand its oily and buttery, which sometimes can go deadly wrong with these white Burgundy and not something I favour. Yet it has a combo of wild yeast flavours, honey, brioche and lots of fresh tickly fruit with sensual apple cider associations, which creates the most divine balance. The touch of oak is also there, yet only secondary with sensuality and so well balanced. The taste is round and lush – just like the nose, yet filled with enormous minerality, life and bite. What a wine. Hunt it if you can find it.

Fri Vin 2014 - Impressions 29 Apr 2014 11:04 AM (11 years ago)

When spring arrives here in the upper part of the northern hemisphere it has an almost hypnotic-like affect. Winter is over – the hell of darkness has come to and end. Life can start again and when you fill the air with 25 degrees, blue skies there is form a madness emerging. On top - set the scene with some of the most leading, innovative bio/”Nature” winemakers play some great jazz music and serve the crowd tasty food. The result was pure bliss.

Fri Vin 2014 was one of the best wine festivals I have ever participated in. I never attend such events to taste in great detail and take away 200 useful tasting notes. No! it’s more about inspiration. Sure I hope discover my next big wine love affair, but seeing the winemakers and just being in a place with likewise passionate people, is far more appealing to me.

There was a phenomenal atmosphere at the event. Of course helped by the weather showing the best spring setting Copenhagen can offer in late April. You also sensed the relationship among the winemakers and how they were proud to be part of something extraordinary.

I think these types of wines and their frivolous appeal showed what they are all about on such a day. The four wine importers behind the event; Petillant, Lieu-dit, Wine Wise and Rosforth & Rosforth are all aware of what these wines can do and did a very intelligent manoeuvre by illustrating the common analog character of both wine, music and food.

Big applause – Bravo!!!!.....so when is the next Fri Vin?

Enjoy the images - they are all clickable and will open a larger and better resolution.

(Dominik Huber)

(Stella di Campalto)

(Olivier Horiot - Champagne)

Evelyne Clairet (Domaine de la Tournelle)

(Gabrio Bini - Insane wines from Azienda Agricola Serragghia)

(Mark Angeli)

(The one and only Sune Rosforth)

(We have beautiful women here in Denmark)

(Nicolas Carmarans)

(Ronald Regan…well almost)

(François Saint-Lô)

(Breathtaking Sinne Eeg - Danish Jazz vovalist)

(More Sinne Eeg)

(Let the party begin)

(Frederic Cossard)

(Christian Nedergård - Mr. Ved Stranden 10 Vinhandel & Bar - owner of Copenhagen's finest beard)

(Gabrio Bini again)

(Guy Breton - Morgon)

Fruit and soil 23 Apr 2014 7:42 AM (11 years ago)

Initially I wanted to do a presentation of Ruppert-Leroy – an exiting new Champagne producer from the Aube region. However, when I was in Champagne (where I have just returned from) I tasted a very exiting white wine – which I actually have in glass right now. It’s the 2012 “Clos du Rouge Gorge” from a producer called Cyril Fhal.

I tasted these wines a day apart and thought it gave good meaning to present them in the same post, as they represent a contrast – yet individually something interesting.

Let’s get aquatinted with the wines:

Fruit!

2011 Ruppert-Leroy “Martin-Fontaine” Brut Nature

Grape: 100% Chardonnay

Teroir: Clay and limestone

Age of vines: 70 years old

Vinification: Oak

Viticulture: Biodynamic

Dosage: 0 g/l

Glass used: Zalto White Wine

A very joyful Champagne, where you immediately feel in a good mood. There is a lot of sensorial sweetness, with ripe fruit, candied citrus, juicy sweet pear/apple and a crystal clear fruit. All together it’s floral attraction and the adorable factor is high. The taste has a precise linear style with a vibrant and precise acidity, which keeps the keynotes uplifted. However there is a fine line of the role of the sensorial sweetness, which keeps adding rather sweet notes, like elderflower and adding what seems to be residual sugar to the back of the palate. On one hand, it’s a part of this joyful style, which you can’t really resist, but you can't help to take notice. For me it’s slightly annoying. Having said that – I had no problems enjoying it. If I turn to Mr. analytic I really miss some sort of soil bite, which could have shifted its focus away from only fruit. So what’s the verdict? Well – this is young Champagne and it’s indeed very healthy and well made. It’s even extremely easy to drink. It could very well be all about baby-fat and a completely different breed in 2-3 years time. To me this is a very good Champagne, but if to turn really great, it will have to attract more soil nerve with cellaring. However I suspect it will have many fans and for sure a producer I look forward to follow.

Soil!

2012 Cyril Fhal “Clos du Rouge Gorge (Blanc)”

Grape: 100% Macabbeu

Terroir: Sandy, silty soil (150-200m above sea level)

Vinification: Oak (2-3 years old) – No sulphur before Vinification.

Viticulture: Since Cyril Fhal took over in 2002 he converted to Bio (Demeter)

Location: We are in Latour de France (Roussillon)

Glass used: Zalto Universal

This is completely different kind of wine. Obviously we are comparing bubbles against a still wine, but as you will see it’s a wine, with an entire different setting. Here the fruit tonality is very shy and not something that would pull your pants down in a blind tasting. It’s however filled with energy – tons of it. It’s that energy, which keeps you turning back to the glass and despite the subdued bouquet, it was actually a wine I spent a lot of time “sniffing”. It’s simply the fascination of not exposing everything at once and a wine, which is constantly changing shape in the glass. The taste is not the kind of wine, which wraps a mouth coating cashmere orgy on you. No! Here its minerals all over – ranging from wet crushed stones, to warm slate. On day two the wine was even better. Thrilling intense, challenging and very reflective to the mind. Loved it and definitely not the last time I taste this producer.

To compare these two wines is not to pick a winner – or a loser. Personally I fell more attracted to wines with high soil energy. However if you have been reading this blog for some time you also know I like to illustrate diversity and how wines should pair with both food, occasions, your own mood and the lust for wine on the day you pull/pop the cork.

Fri vin 2014 18 Apr 2014 6:15 AM (11 years ago)

Impressive list of winemaker this year (click image to see list)

Copenhagen the 26th of April 2014 - from 10:00-18:00. Tickets can be bought here

See you there.

The Wizard of Pinot Meunier 9 Apr 2014 12:37 PM (11 years ago)

Gueux!. Doesn’t really ring a bell in relation to wine does it? But I’ll give you a clue. We are in Champagne country - 15km west of Reims. No?

Anyway - Gueux is a small cosy town – to a degree of romantic with lovely houses, clean pavements and an almost obligatory magnolia tree in the front gardens. Even the café here is nicer and made in a more chick look. The town is quite, which is something I am use to, when I drive around in Champagne. Despite Champagnes exuberant and festive reputation, the regions and its towns are somewhat sleepy towns. On the outside that is, because as soon as you get inside – down to those dark cellars, a huge hospitality awaits - and damn good wine to.

We arrived from the south a day in April and had been driving through endless landscapes of vineyards. But as you cross the town sign of Gueux, the vineyard setting comes to an end. You sense you are closer to Reims and a more common landscape of approaching roads and suburbs neighbourhood.

(The tractor - go home Ferrari)

Yet in Gueux resides a Champagne producer. Jérôme Prévost is his name and I suspect that bell rang?

Yet upon arrival at his house, he is not home. A where is the cellar? Instead I can see a cedar wood looking barn. It’s a little bit open. I am even more curious now. We find out that he is in the vineyard, which should be located 6-700 meters up the road. After turning left we start to sense that there are in fact vineyards in Gueux. The vineyards here are not your romantic notion of sloping hills, where a sparkling sunlight warms up the soil from hilltop in the distance. No! – Here the land is flat as a pancake. It’s not exactly screaming for attention and Jérôme’s vineyard " Les Béguines” are here with 5-6 other parcels. We see Jérôme in the distance – all alone and on a behemoth of a tractor.

He jumps of and greets a handful of passionate wine people from Denmark. “It’s a good day to plow – such an occasion should not be missed, he says”. It’s already the fourth time he plows this year and it doesn’t take you long to see his vineyard looks a bit more healthy that it’s neighbours. The “other” parcels here sadly look like a lot of other vineyards in Champagne. Depleted soils, sprayed with small blue plastic pieces and other metals parts ranging from nails, glass to batteries. The small blue plastic pieces are a shameful chapter in Champagne. In the 1970s the Parisians cleverly disposed of a composting of household waste. “When the soil is so poor of life, the roots seek upwards to find nutrition and this is really not good”.

"Les Béguines” is the story about this very flat vineyard. 2ha of very sandy soils, planted with Pinot Meunier, which by now are about 50 years of age. Pinot Meunier is like most of you probably know Champagnes rustic cousin and often not so highly praised. It’s paradoxically the most planted in Champagne. Yet it’s actually because it’s seldom seen as a mono grape release, but often blended to give some growling baseline. Before I got introduce to these grower Champagnes, I often perceived Pinot Meunier as being pretty baroque and often a very clumsy grape. But for sure in blends –like Krug Vintage, it acts as a good trio partner, giving opposition to the refine tonality of Chardonnay and the aristocratic Pinot Noir.

”Les Béguines” is for sure filled with sand – but also lots of fossils. It can be a little hard to imagine, when you stand here in present time – and with 350km to the nearest coastline - that about 45million years ago the seabed was here in Gueux. The seas erosion has created massive layers of calcareous sand formations and fossils with tiny crustaceans. It’s not exactly hurting the quality of the terroir.

At the end of the vineyard you see a small white house and this is Jérôme 's childhood home. So you would think that he was born to make wine and walk the footsteps of his parents? But it was not like that. His parents didn’t even make wine and the vineyards belonged to his grandmother. She even leased the land out. Jérôme 's interest in life, took a different path towards a more artistic angle, with painting, philosophy, and photography. When he got the offer to take over " Les Beguines " it was not something he just jumped into with open arms. But in 1987 he decide to give it a go and Domaine "La Closerie" is born. The first period is all about bringing the vineyard back to balance by working with respect for nature and no use of pesticides. The juice is initially sold to negociants, while Jérôme seeks inspiration and knowledge. But it ‘s as if he is constantly struggling with the prejudice that you can not make great wine in Gueux and certainly not on such a flat and sandy vineyard, planted with dull Pinot Meunier. Perhaps that why, he in 1995/96 takes a journey to Jura. Jura was about seeking inspiration, but he was also on the verge of obtaining a vineyard there. Today, he looks back and says:” It was a great adventure with Jura, but it was ultimately too difficult for me to leave my home ."

Instead he starts as an apprentice of Anselme Selosse. He tells us how he learned more about making wine the first day with Anselme, than he had ever learned before. Anselme gives Jérôme a task of pumping wine from a cask to another. Jérôme had never tried this before and Anselme begin to explain how to use the pump, but can see that Jerome is a little bit lost in all the technical information. Anselme stops and says to Jérôme "When you are dealing with wine making, both in the cellar and in the vineyard you are using your body and soul. You constantly need to ask yourself - why am I doing this? What is the meaning of this? Is it necessary?”

Personally I don’t know Jérôme very well, but hearing his story and spending some time with him, you begin to understand why this winemaker is so curious - why he constantly seeks inspiration (you will see later) and ask questions. When you combine it with a man of great intellect, humour and his artistic background, you begin to understand why the outcome is a pretty personal wine.

Jérôme spends 5 years with Anselme and it’s also him, who helps him to make the first vintages at his address in Avize. ‘1998 is the first official release with Jérôme Prévost on the label. In 2003 he leaves Anselme to make wine in Gueux. He starts of with one wine: "Les Beguines”. In 2000 and 2003 vintage he makes a wine called " d' Ailleurs “, which is limited cuvée, which have spent +one year more in barrel. I remember tasting the ’03 in London some four years ago and it was truly an eye-opener. In 2007 a rosé sees the daylight, which goes by the name “Fac – Simile”. We are again at Pinot Menier frequency and this is a very juicy cousin. Yet I think many underestimate it’s potential due to its slightly polish candy like feel. But as I see it “Fac – Simile” age very well and right now the ’07s fruit core are starting to feel a little dryer, saltier and obtaining that beautiful verbena note I adore in a rosé Champagne.

With time Jérôme have obtained more land and planted these with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris. The age of the vines are still very young and when he finally decided to release some cuvée(s) it will be a very limited number of bottles.

All of his Champagnes are non-vintage btw – despite they are never blended. So we deal with vintage juice, but officially non-vintage Champagne, as it falls short of the AOC-rules of 36 months on lees. This is quit common when it comes to the small growers. They simple don’t have economy of scale like the big houses, nor do they have the required space in their cellars. Jérôme’s Champagnes taste damn fine when released – especially his trademark of insanely sophisticated spices. Yet! – I have to say, I feel confident they will improve even more after 5-6 years after disgorgement.

Back in the vineyard, Jérôme have really warmed up and a talking about sugar strings, enzymes, proteins, and how you must ensure oxygen in the soils to pump energy into the vines. It’s not your everyday talk for a number idiot like me and you really have to concentrate. But Jérôme explains it really well. Basically he is trying to tell us what nature can do over modern winemaking. If you only leave the sugar addition (Chaptalisation) and enzyme treatment for modern techniques in the cellar you are only extracting one chord to the wine's perfect symphony. But if you provide nature with the right growth conditions - to form sugar naturally, you get endless strings of DNA and it creates a much higher energy and complexity. It’s also one of the reasons why Jérôme never do Chaptalisation to his Champagnes. Instead he harvest with ripe maturity and about 10.5% natural alcohol. Only the natural indigenous yeast is used in the winemaking process.

One hour later we are back in the cellar…sorry barn…. Finally the Vikings can get something to drink.

We kick of with 2012 Vins clairs. 2012 was on an extreme year. A rough winter, with temperatures hitting lows of -20 degrees Celsius in late February. Spring was wet as hell and even includes a devastating hailstorm. The summer was nothing to write about either, before a 10-day heat wave window opens in August and produces temperatures of 40 Celsius. The August window was sent from heaven and saves the harvest. Yet 2012 will still be marked by the rough winter condition and almost everyone reports of a very small harvest. This also goes for Jérôme Prévost, who normally produces 13.000 bottles, but in 2012-vintage he will only release about 6.000. The quality is however really promising.

Hereafter awaits an interesting experiment. Two Champagnes are in play in our Zalto White Wine glasses. The first is lively, light and flowery. Elegant, delicate, yet also a bit short on the last meters. Such a Champagne would be perfect as an aperitif. The second one is more brutal, direct with higher energy and structure. Here you sense the trademark of Prévost, those sophisticated spices, which is really why this guy masters the Pinot Meunier like no other. This is a Champagne to drink with food.

Jérôme looks around and is curious to know our opinions’.

The verdict is the same – we all prefer Champagne no. 2.

But!!!

It’s the same wine – same vintage – both the challenging 2010 vintage.

What! – This can’t be, they are so different? But there is a reason. One of them is a “mistake”. An accident. The accidental wine is No.2. You see, Jérôme’s cellar employee by mistake forgot to add Bentonite. And what is Bentonite? It’s first of all a clay species, which is added to Champagne, securing the dead yeast residuals will petrify and slowly be transported to the neck of the bottle under remuage. If Bentonite is not added, the yeast residuals will not petrify and turn into a small blurry substance inside the bottle and make the juice unclear. “Think about it – Jérôme says, in Champagne we are obsessed with the clarity. Why do you think we call it Vins Clairs?”. Jérôme discovers the ”mistake” after 300 bottles – yet he doesn’t really look sad. Once again, this is a curious winemaker, not following a straight line and all the traditions. And maybe – Bentonite is not added to some bottles on purpose in the future. Who knows?

From here a bombardment of vintage floats at a steady pace. Both rosé and ”Les Béguines”. Jérôme is eager to hear what he think and takes notice off everything being said. As you know I have tasted many of these wines before and if I should chose a favourite it would have to be the ’08. It’s simply magic. Jérôme nods – “I am pretty satisfied with my ’08s he says” with a warm twinkle in his eye.

We finish, outside. It’s crisp April weather. Jérôme has a tradition of serving wines from other producers, who inspires him. A myriad of wines awaits us, with producers like Frederic Cossard, Ganevat, Philippe Pacalet etc. I am in heaven.

This is one those visits you just don’t forget. Thank you Jérôme and see you soon.

You can find another report on Jérôme Prévost here.

“L’Apôtre” Vertical 1999 >>> 2009 12 Jan 2014 4:53 AM (11 years ago)

In late November 2013 David Léclapart stopped by Lidkoeb in Copenhagen to celebrate (almost) 3 anniversaries.

His Danish Importer “Petillant” (Mia & Mads Rudolf) celebrated their 10-year anniversary of importing David Léclapart to Denmark. An event like this required something to drink, so they had lined up not only 10 – but all 11 existing vintages of L’Apôtre; 1999 >>> 2009. The third anniversary was restaurant Noma’s, who opened in Nov-2003 and where some of us (including me) continued with a tailor made David Léclapart dinner. It should be mentioned that their was an event on the Sunday as well @ restaurant Kadeau, where I sadly couldn’t’ participate.

I still remember the first time I tasted 2002 “L’Apôtre”. It was a Friday in April 2008. At that time I was searching for another route in Champagne, which didn’t led to another blind alley of bling bling, gift boxes and tax-free luxury goods. I knew about Selosse and Vilmart and enjoyed both, but there had to be others making real WINE in Champagne.

2002 “L’Apôtre” blew me away and it was the first time I tasted such uncompromising soil intensity in a bottle of Champagne. However the greatest gift about “L’Apôtre” was the man behind it; David Léclapart, whom I had the pleasure of meeting for the first time in April 2009, when I stopped by his place in Trépail.

David Léclapart is one of the most humble winemakers I have ever met. He is addition such a kind, funny and inspirational human being and I have to confess, that my appreciation for his wines under heavy influence of his personality. That said, I am confident that David belongs among some of the “greatest”, but sometimes I wonder if David actually knows that? His easygoing and bohemian approach to life and the way he speaks about his work are never a detailed technical presentation. David speaks more about the bigger lines, such as nature’s influence and how he as a winemaker interacts with the given premises. He is truly unique, hard working with a clear vision of how he wants’ to make wine.

I have of course some notes on the 11 bottles for you, but I have to say that I am becoming less eager about writing technical tasting notes. For sure – I am like a robot when I sit down in a quite room and sniff to wine. My pen instantly start to dance on the paper and I can write tasting notes in my sleep. But tasting a glass or two of L’Apôtre is not really what this Champagne is about. It requires a lot of air and the real conclusion (if at all any) would be more appropriate after a whole bottle. So – take my judgements with a pinch of salt.

L’Apôtre is always a lieu-dit made from the vineyard “La Pierre St-Martin”. The vines are pretty old – planted in 1946 by David’s grandfather and L’Apôtre is vinified in oak, whereas “L’Amateur” (his entry level Champagne) is vinified in steel and “L’Artiste” is half oak / half steel.

Before we started, several of us would have liked to be sort of calibrated with a simple glass of some other bubbly stuff. You felt it was 1,2,3 GO!! And then one of the greatest Champagne just landed in front of you.

2009 “L’Apôtre”

David explained how ’09 reminded him a little of ’03. Yet the burning of the sun was more intense in ’03, yet the warmth in the two vintages was similar. ´09 is officially not released yet and you can feel how the vanilla of the oak is too brutal at the moment, but I would assume it would be more integrated when it’s released in 2015. ’09 is overall a brutal beast at this stage, yet the minerality is fascinating intense, but when you taste it at this young stage there is too much fireworks in front of the mouth. Time will tell.

2008 “L’Apôtre”

’08 is a hyped vintage in Champagne and from what I have tasted from other producers I can understand why. Let’s cut to the chase; 2008 “L’Apôtre” is magic and it’s probably one of the most harmonic young Champagnes I have ever tasted. The fruit in this Champagne are beyond delicious – crystal clear and super ripe material with enormous electrical intensity. The acidity is mind blowing intense, making it already irresistible at this stage. The 2008 “L’Apôtre” are the finest ever released IMHO and if you decided to buy it when it’s released later this year I would suggest you try it right away before moves into a shy phase. Hunt it like demons my fellow friends.

2007 “L’Apôtre”

’07 was a challenge in Champagne and it shows. David saw parallels to ’01, which is indeed also a difficult vintage. After the magic ’08 the ’07 stands out even more awkward. The nose is quite shy and filled with herbal character and peppermint associations. The taste is a touch better as it’s delicate drink, yet missing a lot of bite.

2006 “L’Apôtre”

I have always liked ’06 vintage in Champagne. It has a certain trademark, fuelled from a really devilish intensity. Yet some cuvées needs time and that also goes for the ’06 “L’Apôtre”, which I now taste for the third time. You have to analyze this Champagne more on what it’s actually hiding, as it still feels like the ’06 are trapped in a small box, making its fruit flavours feel like a compact hand grenade. Despite the taste takes the same compact shape, it’s has this devilish intensity, strong bite and a very vibrant acidity to go with it. Give it 3-5 years more in the cellar.

2005 “L’Apôtre”

David told us that the ’05 and ’03 had the same Ph-level. A hot vintage, but no burn on the grapes like it happened in the rather freaky ’03 vintage.

The ’05 vintage has always troubled me. In all of David’s Champagnes, there have been an element of rotten potatoes, which is not a coincident, as a lot of producers have been dealing with rot in the ’05 vintage. Yet I have to say this is the finest version of ’05 “L’Apôtre”

I have ever tasted. No rotten notes, yet a fraction herbal character with fennel and coffee beans. The taste is also good, despite a vintage like ’06 have far more bite. Overall a nice surprise.

2004 “L’Apôtre”

Every time you talk with someone about the ’04 “L’Apôtre”, you always talk about whether it was closed or not? The ’04 shined like a diamond when it was released, with the most insane fresh laser precision and soil intensity. But shortly after it closed down – or did it? I have tasted it many times before and I have to say it feels like it’s constantly bouncing between opened or closed. If conclude anything I would say it’s more closed than open right now. This was also the case at this vertical – but more pronounced on the nose, where it reveals an intense, but somewhat angular character. The taste is however divine- creamy and clinic purity with out of this world focus. It will hold many years – but be patient.

2003 “L’Apôtre”

I have always thought that David has managed to balance this freaky vintage. For sure the vintage will never be elegant and when you have just had a vintage like the ’04, which is sleek elegance, then the ’03 feels a little vulgar in comparison. But wine is also about finding the right occasion and this exotic, deep nutty and caramel breed is more about letting go and being seduced. I actually liked it and still think David has made a fantastic result.

(David - image from Terres et vins de Champagne 2013)

2002 “L’Apôtre”

Basically the ’02 have everything you look for in a great bottle of wine. Every component is harmonic and it stands out as a perfect Champagne with 110% balance. What you might find interesting (but not new to me) is that “L’Apôtre” will actually become rather classic “Champagne” with age, where the autolysis notes start to shape and all those secondary notes comes forward. The difference is however a far cleaner, crisp and real wine without any fuss or make-up. The 2002 are still young and will probably last 20-25 years more. Be happy if you own it.

2001 “L’Apôtre”

Very difficult vintage and David had to capitalize in ’01, which he is far from his philosophy.

Despite there is only one year between the ’02 and ’01, the latter feels 10 -15 years older in the glass. Pretty developed with a lot of nutty autolysis notes and again it feels like very classic aged Champagne. If I have had this alone I would have enjoyed it, but when you know how much soil bite “L’Apôtre” are capable of producing, you can’t help think of a rather amputated specimen.

2000 “L’Apôtre”

The two available bottles at the tasting was apparently very different. I think I got the “wrong” version as mine was rather blurry in the glass and the mousses were almost absent. I have however tasted the ’00 before, which I remember as seductive, buttery, exotic, pineapple creamy and like aged white Burgundy. But this one was impossible to judge as was pretty strange.

1999 “L’Apôtre”

The ’99 are really nice glass of Champagne. Again “classic” and despite it has the same oxidized character like the ’01 is has much more to offer. There is better intensity and the aged flavours have lots of nerve. The acidity is it’s only problem, so I would guess it has its peak now and +5-7 years from now.

(The first “L’Apôtre” - the 1999 and the old label)

So we continued at restaurant Noma, where I sat just beside David and had a dinner I will never forget. No camera, pen or paper – just pleasure, life, wine, food and good friends.

Alcohol – how low can you go? 6 Oct 2013 4:21 AM (12 years ago)

One of the most fascinating things about wine is not only discovering how complex the subject are, but also how you interact with wine and how your taste evolves over time. One of the things I have discovered is how I relate to high and low alcohol wines. My personal taste has for a long time shifted towards wines with less alcohol. But my appreciation for lower % and wines with more finesse seems to be in line with a permanent shift in taste. Even Eric Asimov from The New York Times reports: “of a slight shift in taste in the United States, the proverbial pendulum swing, from heavy wines of power to lighter wines of greater finesse”.

It has always been tricky to navigate around the subject of alcohol level. The risk of just another trench warfare discussion about numbers has always been present. Such a debate will always try to set a threshold number what’s acceptable and take it from there. The discussion is in addition a one-way thread – focussing only on high numbers or have you ever heard anyone wanting more alcohol is their Moscato d’Asti or German Spätlese?

Picking wines from a %-level is like label checking a piece of clothes and not buying it because it wasn’t the right brand. Snobbery at worst – maybe even prejudices, dogmatic and sacred will often be the first reaction towards those who didn’t focus what was actually “inside”.

Mostly the discussion finds its compromise by concluding that the numbers in itself has little meaning, if the wine were in “balance”.

But what does balance actually mean?

It means that high alcohol wines can work and you will see taster’s saying that no burning or heat was felt. So end of discussion – or? In my opinion the balance argument is flawed because it’s just another individual opinion and not a very complex parameter.

“The wine worked for you – but it didn’t work for me”.

Temperature is also critical for high alcoholic wines and the overall drinking pleasure. I don’t know about you, but some years ago every wine concluding argument in my own backyard was always related to some pompous tasting event. The event was a race with points, notes, ridiculous amount of bottles and blue teeth. Nowadays I see a far more diverse landscape, where we have shifted from tasting wine at these tastings events, to drinking wine at home. This has changed the concept of “balance” for me. A good wine has to provide drinking pleasure – not matter what. The criteria for success are quite simple; the next sip just has to be better and better. Often such wines are characterized by you wish there was more left in the bottle when you have finished it.

So how did this start?

Well it all started quite innocent by falling in love with cool tempered wines. It was a desire for finesse and not power. Red Burgundy was one of the first discoveries for me, but financial wines I felt myself a bit distant from these expensive offerings. So I discovered German Spätlese, but despite providing great finesse I found it difficult to use these wines with everyday food. Next on my route was Champagne and today my greatest love affair. Champagne is a phenomenal drink. Incredible with food, great finesse and always ranged between 12% <> 13% alcohol. From there I have taken a big journey into natural wine. Natural wine have learned me a great deal about my perception of wine and really rocked my boat. One of the many things I can take out of this journey, have been how low alcohol wines have proved to be a key element to drinking pleasure. It’s interesting to see how your taste buds starts to reform when you have so many low alcohol wines and I can’t help to compare it with how I saw the same pattern some 6-7 years ago when I started to drink Non dosage Champagne. When first addicted – some “Brut” Champagnes was suddenly appalling sweet. The same side affect has happened again, as I am now far more sensitive against high alcohol wines.

And I am not alone. Everyone of those I has shared wine with over the past 10-15 years are moving in the same direction.

So today – when I buy wines – yes admitted, I “label check”. What’s the alcohol level? Above 14,5% and it’s 95% a no go. I can make a few exceptions when especially referring to a Barolo. They are often in this high end, but somehow they can balance at this point. But I need food with Barolo – I can’t just drink them alone…and it doesn’t really hurt when I think of a beautiful risotto and Barolo

But overall I prefer wines in the range of 11% <> 13% and 90% of the wines I drink are in this range.

I think low alcohol wines are “the new black”. It will be more than a trend, because when you have first learned to appreciate the light weighted finesse of these wines, you want more and you will never ever go back to heavy dull and clumsy blockbuster wine.

What do you think?

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