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Buone ferie 2 Aug 2013 | 12:00 pm

Dear friends, While we hope to keep you on your toes by sending you the occasional sneaky mid-summer note, today’s note is to say arrivederci now that the traditional Italian summer ferie (vacation/br...

A castle on fire, a gulf filled with colorful flames 1 Aug 2013 | 01:11 pm

The Riviera town of Rapallo celebrates it’s patron saint in style.  A 3-day celebration of fireworks and processions honors the Madonna di Montallegro, whose santuario and basilica lie in the mountain...

l’Eremo di Santa Maria Giacobbe 31 Jul 2013 | 04:17 pm

When you run your eyes along Umbria’s mountain slopes, you will more often than not come across a stone building plunked into the midst of what seems like impregnable woods or perched precariously on ...

Breakfast at the Forum? 30 Jul 2013 | 12:00 pm

Why “at the Forum”? Well, first because they have pesky rules against eating “in the forum”; there is no bar caffe’ to speak of. And second, because breakfast “at the Forum” refers to the hotel where ...

Arm Strongarms 29 Jul 2013 | 06:01 pm

One can hardly imagine that this quiet hilltop town was once a warfaring medieval fortress belonging to the condottiero (Renaissance mercenary military leader) Andrea Fortebracci, (Andy Strongarms), 1...

A Tradition Revived 26 Jul 2013 | 04:20 pm

Street painting was first recorded in the 16th century Italy. The Madonnari (lit, Madonna makers) were itinerant artists who would paint religious icons on the courtyards of the great Italian cathedra...

Peach Varieties 24 Jul 2013 | 12:00 pm

“Scendi a prendere le pesche”, was my aunt’s order. I was 5. (Go to the market to get some peaches, pronounced pes-ke in Italian). Quite proud to have been given such an important task, I reached the ...

Tartufi.. here yet? 23 Jul 2013 | 02:28 pm

In early July, Severino and Italo, local farmers and passionate tartufari, were speculating on the debut of this summer’s scorzone (black summer truffle).  Italo – a truffler for thirty years now – pr...

The Polenta Well 19 Jul 2013 | 02:26 pm

A local story from the 15th century tells of a peasant who was returning home after a hard day in the fields, carrying a heavy sack of corn meal on his shoulders. Upon reaching the top of Via della Pi...

San Fruttuoso: a hidden abbey by the sea 18 Jul 2013 | 04:23 pm

The ancient abbey of San Fruttuoso lies between the Ligurian villages of Camogli and Portofino, nestled at the foot of the sloping mountains of the Portofino regional park that meet the crystal blue w...

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