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The colours of the Batignolles 18 Aug 2013 | 11:30 pm

The Batignolles does not attract many tourists. That, in itself, is part of its charm. But there are many reasons to venture there. Food. Gardens. Places for children to play. And colour, because that...

Mushrooms, manure, and the secret of French food 5 Aug 2013 | 06:12 am

Recently, at The Astrolabe Gallery, a print and map store on Sparks Street in Ottawa, I chanced upon a page from the London Illustrated News, Dec. 4, 1869. Two woodcuts depicted “Mushroom Culture in F...

Death and taxes 22 Jul 2013 | 12:59 am

Whenever I buy postcards or other pictures of Paris, I gravitate to anything unfamiliar. So when I was leafing through some inexpensive engravings at an antiques fair on the Place St-Sulpice in June, ...

Michael Caine: an English traditional typographer in the heart of Paris 8 Jul 2013 | 02:35 am

One evening in 2007, we left our rented apartment on rue Charlemagne for a walk in the Marais. On the rue de la Cerisiaie, we peered at a small poster on the glass door of a narrow workshop. Suddenly,...

An honourable education 24 Jun 2013 | 12:46 am

Every time we plan a trip to Paris, we have a list of things we want to do there. And every time we get to Paris, we end up doing fewer than half of those things. After all, opportunities arise and it...

The Nuns’ Tale 9 Jun 2013 | 10:04 pm

A few months ago, I was working at my desk while the radio played in the background. All of a sudden, I heard something extraordinary. I had been vaguely aware of some orchestral music that suggested ...

Buttes Chaumont: The Park for the People 27 May 2013 | 02:29 am

Although it lacks the aristocratic pedigree of some Paris parks, the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in the 19th arrondissement is my favourite. The Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes were formerly r...

Buttes Chaumont: The Park for the People 21 May 2013 | 02:29 am

Although it lacks the aristocratic pedigree of some Paris parks, the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in the 19th arrondissement is my favourite. The Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes were formerly r...

The man who gave Paris 50 fountains 13 May 2013 | 04:12 am

On our first visit to Paris together, Norman took a picture of me standing beside a Wallace fountain. I liked the dark green caryatids and the elegant dome. Later, on a visit to the Pavillon de l’Eau,...

Postcards of a Working River 29 Apr 2013 | 03:58 am

We don’t often think of Paris as a port city. But the city handles about 20 million tonnes of cargo a year, and with more than 7 million people travelling on the river each year, Paris is the leading ...

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